Motifs: Origami (Paper-folding)

Stylized depictions of folded paper, usually cranes, are another whimsical motif that can be found on garments, though they are often reserved for children. As a consequence, the only garment I have immediately to hand for demonstration of this motif is one I made for myself out of a cotton print manufactured primarily for quilting.

Origami cranes on susoyoke

As cranes are the most popular design for this particular motif, it's very hard to not jump ahead of myself and talk more about their symbolism (we're saving that for  4/23). Instead, I can point out that with origami motifs, you can have items that are suitable for any season. The 'paper' of the motif can be used to reflect any number of popular themes, depending on the designer's intent. In the case of the susoyke that I made, it hardly matters what designs the cranes bear as they are not likely to be seen , and if they are, it will be only briefly.

I developed an interest in origami long before I developed my interest in kimono. I was fascinated with the concept of taking a flat square of paper and, with a few strategic folds, creating a tiny bit of art. When I moved to California, I discovered washi paper and what a delight it was to fold. As I worked, looking at the patterns printed on the paper became a part of the meditation of folding. I spend a lot of time folding, cranes in particular, and have quite lost count of just how many I've folded. Have any of my kind readers tried origami? Were you successful or simply frustrated? I would love to read your stories in the comments!

Tomorrow is another decidedly seasonal motif as we have a look at Pine (Matsu).

Motifs: Nadeshiko (Pinks)

Delicate and frilled, nadeshiko are (like so many of the flowers we've seen so far) best worn in the spring and summer months. It should be no surprise, then that my two best examples are found on yukata.

Swatch of yukata covered with nadeshiko blossoms.

I was surprised to find that I didn't have any examples of this yukata being worn-- it's another one of my favorites, particularly for obon practices. It's made of a lightweight cotton, so it is comfortable for wearing on warm summer evenings and the festive colors make it a very striking piece.

My other yukata is a little more subdued, and nadeshiko are not the only flower to be found in the patterning.

The nadeshiko are on the sleeves in this photo; there are also bell-flowers.

We saw this yukata before, when we were talking about Linear motifs (in this case, we were clearly using the obi for the example). When I am pairing pieces, I do like to have a little bit of color carrying from one piece to the other to keep some sort of cohesive sense to the ensemble as a whole. It can be difficult, though, because you can run the risk of having too much of the same thing in the ensemble. With this pairing, the mauve of the obi is reflected only subtly in the tinting of some of the flowers. so the pieces are complimentary without one overpowering the other.

When I am dressing in kimono, I take a lot of things into consideration but when I try to do this with western fashion, I feel like I fall short. I admire those of you who can pair accessories with an ensemble to create a visual spark and hope that you might share some of your success stories in the comments!

Tomorrow's motif, Origami (Paper-folding) is another 'manufactured' motif and I hope you join me to read about this whimsical offering.

Motifs: Momiji (Maple Leaves)

What could be more symbolic of autumn than falling leaves? There is no denying the seasonality of momiji, often portrayed in warm tones as they flutter and fall in kimono patterning.

Once again, my very best example is on a ningyo. This lovely lady was a rescue from a thrift store and is much taller than some of my other ladies, so she appears here in her natural habitat-- on top of one of my book shelves.

"A Japanese Lady Walking in the Rain" is what I believe the little tag on her base reads. You can see one of my rare male dolls lurking behind her.

Her kimono has faded over the years, but I don't think this lessens just how striking the falling leaves are against the pale mauve fabric. Her obi is emblazoned with kiku (chrysanthemums) in paler cream tones and silver.

Out of my own collection, one of my best momiji examples is combined with another design element-- sensu (fans). Such small patterns are often refered to as 'komon' and are generally considered to be relatively informal (there will always be some sort of exception, but it's a reasonable guideline to follow).

Photo taken at Clockwork Alchemy 2015 during my panel 'Don't be that Gaijin'

The above photo is not the clearest example of the kimono in question (I promise I'll have a better one when we get to S for Sensu/Fans) but it does offer the surprise bonus of momiji as part of the pattern of the VERY formal fukuro obi I had brought along for demonstration purposes. The leaf pattern is in the little cloud at the bottom left.

There are many other design elements in that particular obi, including botan, or peony, and it was only when I was looking for images of this kimono that I discovered this little facet of the design. There are many pieces in my collection which have neat or intriguing little designs, and if my kind readers have favorite 'Easter Eggs' in their own wardrobe, I should love to read about them in the comments!

I am spending some time away from the keyboard this week, so any replies to comments may be slower than usual. I do have plenty of posts lined up for the challenge, though, and with tomorrow's motif, we are back to spring and summer motifs with the Nadeshiko (Pinks).
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Motifs: Linear (Tate-Jima/Yoko-Jima)

Lines may not be a 'motif' in the strictest sense of the word. They don't have the glamour of carrying meanings in the same way the other motifs I've talked about do, but there is no denying that they are exceedingly versatile, serving as a base to moderate more outspoken patterns in a variety of ways.

If you've been with me for the whole month, you might remember my post on fuji (wisteria) and the simple pin-stripe kimono I wore to set off the very striking haori. I put together an ensemble using the same idea a couple of years ago, but in that case, I wanted to lessen the somewhat dizzying effect my kimono could have on the unsuspecting viewer.

Hitoe kimono in bold stripes of black and white, interspersed with primary colors. Note that the stripes all run on the bias, or diagonally.

Same ensemble, but with the addition of an orange haori.

In the above examples, both garments work in harmony to create one visual whole. The haori would be too loud if placed over another floral kimono, and the hitoe on its own lacks a certain visual panache, despite the bold striping on the bias. The combination was also chosen to reflect the season, with the grape leaves on the orange field of the haori added a touch of autumn.

With the next example, the components have been switched, and we have a striped haori over patterned kimono.

Yukata with snowbunnies under striped haori.

The bunny yukata is not one of my boldest kimono as far as coloring and patterning go. It's unique in that it is a decidedly wintery pattern printed on cotton and intended to be worn as yukata (the idea being that the motif leads the viewer to think on the cooler seasons and be refreshed while the season is warm). As a consequence, this is a garment that I will pull out for summer, because it is lightweight and comfortable, but also for winter because the motif then reflects the season and the garment can be 'dressed up' to make it less causal than a yukata might otherwise be when worn outside the summer season. Part of that 'dressing up' is aided by wearing a haori as a final layer, and this subdued striped haori completes the impression that 'cooler weather is here.'

We've already seen how geometric motifs can be highly complimentary in obi, and stripes are certainly no exception to this rule. The next example, a yukata with multiple flowers making up the design, is set off by a mauve obi with subtle striping in the pattern. The slightly curved pattern on the obi compliments the circular flower motifs without being too similar and still adding visual interest without making the ensemble feel busy.

Yukata with bell-flowers and nadeshiko with mauve striped obi.

Putting together this entry was really eye-opening for me; I didn't realize just how many striped items I had in my collection. As I combed through all of the images, I saw that I wouldn't be able to create such a variety of looks if I didn't have this powerhouse of versatility. Do my kind readers have an unsung hero of their wardrobe? I'd love to read about them in the comments!

Tomorrow will bring us back to botanical motifs as we look at Momiji (Maple Leaves)!

Motifs: Kasa (Umbrellas/Parasols)

Practical and stylish, kasa are highly underrated as far as motifs go. They carry a certain amount of whimsy into an ensemble that can't be matched with a pure floral or geometric motif. Until I started my kitsuke practice, I would never have considered reaching for a garment adorned with umbrellas, but that changed when I spotted this han-haba obi in Nichi Bei Busan:

Yes, it should look familiar! I get a lot of use out of this obi.

While kasa themselves do not have any specific seasonality associated with them, the presence of these on a brightly colored han-haba obi makes them ideal for summer wear with yukata.

As you may have discerned from the brevity of this post, this obi is the only thing in my collection with kasa. I'd really like to change that, but in the meantime, instead of boring you with photos that you saw in I for Iris (Ayame), I thought I might instead talk about another artistic medium where kasa show up-- woodblock prints.

Specifically, I'm thinking of the illustrations that were inspired by yokai (monsters). A googling of 'kasa-obake' will bring you any number of hits on the story behind these creatures as well as the illustrations. The story with which I am most familiar is the 'creation myth' behind such yokai. It's a cautionary tale, to be sure.

In legend, it's said that a whole collection of long-used and abused household objects were finally cast aside by their owners. Under normal circumstances, this might have been fine, but these particular items, including the kasa had been used for so long that they'd actually taken on a life of their own. (This seems to be a common theme in Japanese tales, the long life equated with more power, like how kitsune, or fox-spirits, will get an extra tail every 100 years they live.) Upset with how they had been abused and neglected, the cast-away objects took revenge on their former owners by tormenting and haunting them.

In our modern society, with so much focus on 'newer' and 'better,' I think this serves as a very good reminder to take care of the things we do have, so that they will serve us well and leave us in peace when it is time for them to retire. If my kind readers have any stories of a most-cherished object that abides in their home, I would love to hear about it in the comments!

Starting tomorrow, I am going to be away from my keyboard, but I have plenty of posts scheduled until I return. If I am not as prompt at replying to comments and questions as I might be, please understand and I look forward to being back next week! Tomorrow, by the way, our theme will be 'Linear,' with a look at how stripes can play a strategic role in kitsuke.

Motif: Juxtapositions

Rather than taking today to talk about any of the motifs I could have used for 'J,' I thought it might be fun to instead look at some motifs that are created with different design elements. On their own, these items might have one meaning, but in juxtaposition to other designs, the intent is subtly shifted.

When I came up with this solution to my 'J' problem, I had one specific motif in mind. This combination of bamboo, pine, and plum is so common that it has its own name: Shochikubai. Also referred to as 'The Three Friends of Winter' this motif is considered to be highly auspicious and is most associated with the New Year season (Lunar, but also Gregorian), and is also the name of a very popular brand of sake.

Shochikubai with cute mousy-type critters guard our kitchen

The noren above is the only example of this motif that I could find in the house, which was very surprising to me, given how very popular it is. Bemused, I went back through my collection and stumbled upon another motif that is made up of many singular aspects drawn together-- Shoen Road.

This motif, also known as 'Shining Road,' is actually more like a river motif, and the other aspects that go into making it a cohesive whole can vary greatly, depending on what impression the artist behind the fabric wished to convey.

Detail of sleeve on pink 'shoen road' kimono.

The floral motifs (fuji, ume and kiku-- wisteria, plum, and chrysanthemum), as well as the soft pink hue mark this as a decidedly 'early spring' kimono. You might notice some other design elements in this very busy piece-- the hanabishi diamonds, as well as a faux-shibori print ground for the wisteria. There are also auspicious (if somewhat drunken) cranes scattered through the design.

I find that pieces like this one do much better with uncomplicated obi and accessories; something that will mute the effect of having so much going on visually. When I wore this piece out for a very (VERY) late winter excursion, I chose a vintage knit shawl to compliment the ensemble. It was still cool enough for the second layer to be necessary, and made the whole effect less 'springy' overall.

Pink 'shoen road' kimono paired with blue ombre obi and knit shawl.

If you've been following along so far, you may have noticed that there are a great many pieces in my collection that are not limited to just one motif. I think this adds to the versatility of the garments, as well as to the effect I can have in making my own juxtapositions in ensembles. I'm sure that this is quite common in fashion and in art, and I would love to hear about any favorite pairings of theme or color my kind readers have in their own arts and fashions. Please feel free to write about them in the comments!

Tomorrow, we will be looking at what I refer to in the labels as a 'manufactured' theme. So far, we've been seeing either plants or animals with the occasional geometric, but tomorrow's theme of Kasa (umbrellas/parasols) is a motif that is clearly man-made in origin.

Motifs: Iris (Ayame)

Most appropriate for spring, irises are felt to symbolize good news or glad tidings in Hanakotoba (the Japanese language of flowers).

Ayame yukata worn for Obon 2014.

While many floral motifs are given guidelines for when their appearance is most appropriate, I find that I very seldom adhere to them strictly. For instance, if the pattern is on a yukata, such as the above example, I feel that it is fair game for wearing for the whole of summer (though I would probably not push it past July, which is when Obon falls). If the pattern is more like the example below, then I might wear it even into late summer, because the more dominant motif (to me, at least) are the fan shapes, which are not quite so limited.

Detail of yukata fabric featuring ayame on a fan-shaped motif. 

Up to this point, I've talked a great deal about appropriateness to season, but I haven't really delved much into the meanings behind the floral motifs, either Western or Japanese. For many, the 'language of flowers' is a rather dead one, beyond roses for romance and lilies for mourning, yet so many people have favorite flowers that they may cherish for reasons that go far beyond the traditionally associated symbolism.

My own favorite flower is a favorite not because of what it means (the Western association isn't particularly flattering, though I was pleased to discover that the Japanese association is much more kind) but because of fond memories I have of looking for them to bloom in spring. If my kind readers have similar 'disassociated associations,' I would be most interested to read them in the comments!

For tomorrow's theme, I have had to be somewhat irreverent in the choosing of a motif. I don't have any Juji (cross motifs, also known as 'tens' because of how the numeral is written) in my collection, so we will be discussing the Juxtaposition of motifs!