Motifs: Yabane (Arrow Fletching)

As a representational motif or striking (pardon the pun) geometric, yabane can be one of the more versatile motifs in a collection. Since it is a 'man-made' motif and usually geometric in execution, it doesn't really have seasonal associations which further lends to its versatility. Like many motifs, there are exceptions, like a yaguruma (arrow fletching pinwheel) configuration which is heavily associated with Kodomo no Hi, or Children's Day (May 5).

Yabane are considered to be very auspicious; fletching from a broken arrow is often used as a talisman against bad luck. This particular aspect makes it a good choice for accessories, like the kinchaku pictured below.

With geometric patterning and classic red/white color combo, this can be paired with practically any ensemble.

My most interesting examples of this motif come from the kimono of some of my ningyou. My first example is the top worn by my somewhat rakish samurai who wields the fan more freely than the sword

This ningyo was bought at a sale supporting the Yu Ai Kai in San Jose's Japantown.

In this example, the fletching and part of the arrow shaft are represented and scattered over a field of purple. While it's a very interesting pattern, it is not one that I have personally encountered on a full-scale kimono. Far more common is the geometric rendering of the yabane, like my first example and as shown in the images below.

This lovely lady was purchased at a thrift store in Willow Glen, CA.

A clear example of what sun exposure can do to fabrics. The purple of her kimono was likely just as vivid as the samurai's, if not moreso.

When I first saw this lovely lady, I was quite charmed, and very taken with how strikingly pale her kimono was, and how subtle the patterning. As the coloring was so uniform, it didn't occur to me until I got her home and was able to take a closer look that what I considered striking, others would see as sun damage. The second image illustrates very well what the original color of her kimono would have been, and might suggest why she found herself in a thrift store. I know very little about her though her kanzashi and the positioning of her hands suggest to me that she is depicting a dance. If my kind readers have any further speculation or suggestions, I should love to read them!

You may remember the following example from earlier this month, wen we were discussing ajisai (hydrangea).

The yabane here is the 'plain' side of a reversible obi.

This obi was a gift and its reversible nature has made it a valuable addition to my collection. The pattern of the visible side here is created within the weave of the fabric, so it is a subtle color shift and a great compliment to many 'busier' yukata.

We have just one more day of the A-to-Z challenge, and I hope that you'll join me tomorrow for our final motif!

Motifs: Waves (Seigaiha) and Wheels (--guruma)

Today's first motif doesn't fit neatly into some of the categories that we've studied so far this month. Waves are hardly botanical or zoological, and unless one is in a theme-park, they aren't really manufactured either. The closest categorization might be geometric, but this isn't always the case. Even so, they can be found as a design element and motif in many kimono and accessories. Waves are not really seasonally specific, though they can be found in combinations that will lend themselves to a specific seasonality or occasion.

Cream hitoe kimono with wave pattern

Closer shot of the hitoe, with a little more of the wave pattern detailing visible

This ensemble was put together to commemorate the reopening of a tea house in San Jose's Japanese Friendship Gardens. In this example, the wave pattern reads a little like scales on a fish, punctuated with green and maroon 'wave' arches over kiku. I chose this particular kimono because of it's fresh and spring-like coloring as well as the fact that the 'wave scales' pay a (very subtle) homage to the koi that live in the nearby ponds.

Wheels, our second motif for the day, are a little more straight-forward. There are several different styles of wheels to be found as traditional motifs, like ishiguruma (stone wheel) and genji-guruma (carriage wheel). Wheels are also not particularly seasonal, though they might be found a little more commonly in winter-appropriate designs.

Obi with wheel and crane motifs

We saw this obi earlier this month when we were talking about cranes (tsuru) but in this image, at least, the wheel is actually the more prominent of the designs. this particular wheel is more like a genji-guruma, as it is fairly ornate in configuration.

For many of the motifs, I haven't really delved into deeper symbolism. With so many natural  motifs on display, it's far easier to talk about seasonality, and in many cases, there really isn't much to delve into; the motifs are admired because they are reflections of nature and admirable for that alone. With the wheel, however, I feel that I would be remiss if I did not try to make mention of some of its deeper meanings, especially in relation to Buddhism and specifically, Dharma.

This Dharma Wheel is the insignia for Buddhist Chaplains in the USAF. Image sourced from Wikipedia.

While I dance at Obon, I am not someone who was raised in Buddhist teaching, nor am I an active practitioner. Even so, to try to say that the wheel is nothing more than a pleasing motif seems disingenuous to me, so please bear with me.

My understanding of Dharma as one of the 'Three Jewels' of Buddhist teaching, is that Dharma is the 'cosmic law.' Some congregations may see it as specifically the teachings of Buddha himself (specifically the Four Noble Truths and the Eight-fold Path), while others view it as 'the way things are.'

What does a wheel have to do with all of this? Traditionally, the Dharma wheel (Dharmachakra) will have eight spokes for the Eight-Fold Path. The hub or center represents moral discipline. The rim of the wheel represents meditation and mindfulness; those things which hold the practice together. The perfection of the circular shape is the perfection of Buddha's teachings.

Not all wheels or wheel motifs will be representative of the Dharma, but I feel that it's important to know that there are wheels and wheel motifs that will have a deeper meaning than what might otherwise be obvious. Just as I try not to wear kimono with family crests, or kana or kanji that I do not understand, similarly do I try to avoid unfamiliar motifs until I have made sure I understand what they are.

I am sure that all of us, at one time or another, have been confronted with misunderstandings due to language or unfamiliarity and gone on to learn from them. If my kind readers care to share their own experiences, I hope that you will do so in the comments.

Tomorrow, we're cheating a bit to get an 'X' motif. Your clue is that it is a geometric, and I hope you join me tomorrow to find out which one!

Motifs: Sensu (Folding Fan)

Unlike the uchiwa (rigid, round, paddle-shaped fan) which is most appropriate in the summertime, the sensu, or folding fan, can be found throughout the year. With motifs such as this, color and positioning with other motifs will determine when the garment is best worn.

This yukata fabric features a shape reminiscent of  folding fans without the ribs and hinge-point.

It's hard to tell in this photo, but this pattern really IS a scattering of fans over a field of momiji. This kimono is lined, which, along with the colors and pairing of patterns, make it more suitable for autumn.

The versatility of this motif means that it's very easy to incorporate into many ensembles. Geometric motifs are likely the easiest to use to coordinate, such as with the first example below. In some cases, such as with the decidedly geometric sensu in the second example below, floral motifs might be used to compliment the garment to greater effect.

This swatch is of a lined kimono in colors that remind me very much of Taisho-era styling with bold colors and designs. The shape of the fan is abstracted, but undeniable.

This might initially appear to be a diamond motif, but the detailing at the left-hand corners suggest instead that this is a fan motif as well.

 All of my examples so far have been some sort of abstracted interpretation of the fan motif, but it is quite possible to find honest-to-goodness sensu on garments as well.

Unlined (hitoe) kimono with a scattering of fans from shoulder to hem.

I feel that this is the most whimsical of my sensu-motif offerings. The unfolded fans flutter from the shoulders down to a denser congregation at the hems and bottoms of the sleeves. These fans are also the most like fans of any of the other offerings, which can make pairing them with obi a bit of a challenge.

If you've been reading along from the beginning of this challenge, you may have noticed that I appreciate versatility in my motifs. As I try to give due consideration to what effect I might have with my choices, having options that can be a little ambiguous, or can set a different tone depending on the items with which they're paired, gives me a much greater 'vocabulary' than I might otherwise have if I was trying to be seasonally specific at all times. Versatile items really are a must for any wardrobe and if my kind readers have any special items that they find themselves reaching for when all else fails, I would love to read about them in the comments!

Tomorrow, we'll be looking at another versatile motif and one that, earlier this week, I promised I would be discussing: Tsuru (Crane)

Motifs: Origami (Paper-folding)

Stylized depictions of folded paper, usually cranes, are another whimsical motif that can be found on garments, though they are often reserved for children. As a consequence, the only garment I have immediately to hand for demonstration of this motif is one I made for myself out of a cotton print manufactured primarily for quilting.

Origami cranes on susoyoke

As cranes are the most popular design for this particular motif, it's very hard to not jump ahead of myself and talk more about their symbolism (we're saving that for  4/23). Instead, I can point out that with origami motifs, you can have items that are suitable for any season. The 'paper' of the motif can be used to reflect any number of popular themes, depending on the designer's intent. In the case of the susoyke that I made, it hardly matters what designs the cranes bear as they are not likely to be seen , and if they are, it will be only briefly.

I developed an interest in origami long before I developed my interest in kimono. I was fascinated with the concept of taking a flat square of paper and, with a few strategic folds, creating a tiny bit of art. When I moved to California, I discovered washi paper and what a delight it was to fold. As I worked, looking at the patterns printed on the paper became a part of the meditation of folding. I spend a lot of time folding, cranes in particular, and have quite lost count of just how many I've folded. Have any of my kind readers tried origami? Were you successful or simply frustrated? I would love to read your stories in the comments!

Tomorrow is another decidedly seasonal motif as we have a look at Pine (Matsu).

Motifs: Kasa (Umbrellas/Parasols)

Practical and stylish, kasa are highly underrated as far as motifs go. They carry a certain amount of whimsy into an ensemble that can't be matched with a pure floral or geometric motif. Until I started my kitsuke practice, I would never have considered reaching for a garment adorned with umbrellas, but that changed when I spotted this han-haba obi in Nichi Bei Busan:

Yes, it should look familiar! I get a lot of use out of this obi.

While kasa themselves do not have any specific seasonality associated with them, the presence of these on a brightly colored han-haba obi makes them ideal for summer wear with yukata.

As you may have discerned from the brevity of this post, this obi is the only thing in my collection with kasa. I'd really like to change that, but in the meantime, instead of boring you with photos that you saw in I for Iris (Ayame), I thought I might instead talk about another artistic medium where kasa show up-- woodblock prints.

Specifically, I'm thinking of the illustrations that were inspired by yokai (monsters). A googling of 'kasa-obake' will bring you any number of hits on the story behind these creatures as well as the illustrations. The story with which I am most familiar is the 'creation myth' behind such yokai. It's a cautionary tale, to be sure.

In legend, it's said that a whole collection of long-used and abused household objects were finally cast aside by their owners. Under normal circumstances, this might have been fine, but these particular items, including the kasa had been used for so long that they'd actually taken on a life of their own. (This seems to be a common theme in Japanese tales, the long life equated with more power, like how kitsune, or fox-spirits, will get an extra tail every 100 years they live.) Upset with how they had been abused and neglected, the cast-away objects took revenge on their former owners by tormenting and haunting them.

In our modern society, with so much focus on 'newer' and 'better,' I think this serves as a very good reminder to take care of the things we do have, so that they will serve us well and leave us in peace when it is time for them to retire. If my kind readers have any stories of a most-cherished object that abides in their home, I would love to hear about it in the comments!

Starting tomorrow, I am going to be away from my keyboard, but I have plenty of posts scheduled until I return. If I am not as prompt at replying to comments and questions as I might be, please understand and I look forward to being back next week! Tomorrow, by the way, our theme will be 'Linear,' with a look at how stripes can play a strategic role in kitsuke.