Crafting: Hadajuban (Part 4)

Welcome to the Workspace Wednesday crafting series. This week, we're concluding our inaugural project, sewing a hadajuban. Parts 1 and 2 can be found here, and here. Part 3 can be found here.

This week, we're going to pick up with finishing the neckline of the garment, and we'll also cover final steps for finishing! After today,  you should be able to complete your own hadajuban! This week's entry is a little lengthy, but I didn't want to stretch this out for another week, so let's get started!

The instructions in the Folkwear pattern are very clear for the stay-stitching. I recommend starting at the bottom of the slant on the left overlap (because of how the fabric will feed through a standard machine) with the recommended 1/2" seam allowance. As you approach the the beginning of the neck, you'll want to ease that seam allowance out to 3/4" and by the time you hit the back and are headed towards the back seam, you will want to be at a full 1" for your seam allowance. Stay at 1" across the back of the neck opening until it's time to ease around that curve into 3/4" and then back down to 1/2" for the rest of the front of the body and overlap.

You should be able to make out the curving guideline of stitches. Getting a neat curve can take some practice.

If your sewing machine does not have guidelines going up to a full inch, you can use a small ruler and put down a line of masking tape to mark where the edge of your fabric will be when it is an inch from the needle. This has been an invaluable marker on my own sewing machine, given how often I find myself needing it for projects like this.

Once that line is in place, we are ready to really diverge from the pattern and set down our bias-binding finish for the neck edge!

For this, you will want double-fold bias binding. You can use a complimentary or contrasting color-- no one but you is likely to ever see this. I like using the double-fold bias binding because it keeps all of the edges clean and is actually a little easier to ease around the curve of the neckline because of the slightly stretchy nature of fabric cut on a bias. You should only need one pack if you aren't making the binding yourself, but it's better to get two, just in case.

Open double-fold bias binding pinned along the stay-stitched guideline

When you first open your bias binding, you should note that one edge is slightly wider from fold to end than the other side. You'll want to use the fold that is closest to the narrower side as your guideline for pinning. This will make our final finishing steps a little easier. If you can't tell, or it seems the the folds are equidistant, then don't worry, the bias binding will still do it's job.

Pinned bias binding eased around the curve.

You're going to be applying the bias binding all the way around the same area as  you would be applying a regular collar-- along the sloped edges of the overlaps and around the neck. The straightaway isn't a problem, but that pesky neckline curve is. You can do a preliminary pinning, starting at one end and working around to check how much of the binding you'll need, remembering to leave a little extra at each end to tuck into themselves to finish.

For the actual pinning, you'll want to be sure to open one side of your bias binding. The fold-line is going to be what you line up with the stay-stitching, as you can see in the photos above. Start with the center of your length of bias binding, and pin to the center back of your hadajuban, right sides together (the valley of the fold will be facing up, so that when it's sewn down, you can fold it towards the edge of the fabric, then around to finish). I like to pin working from the center around to one side, and then from the center to the other side.

By starting from the center and working out, you have a lot more play in the fabric to ease around that curve. You want all of the fabric to sit flush, without any tucks, wrinkles or folds getting caught. It sounds very counter-intuitive to be able to take a straight piece of fabric and work it around a curve without folding, but it's totally doable!

First seam is done! You can see a few stitches peeking out, but this is pretty normal and they are easy to remove with a seam ripper. Remember, those were just there to be a guideline.

Once you have your first seam done, fold the bias binding up to check for any tucks or folds that may have gotten into your seam, particularly at the curve of the neckline. If all you're seeing are a few little stitches like the ones above, you're doing great! Those stitches can be picked out, by the way-- they're not integral to the structure of the garment. Just be careful that you don't rip the fabric when you pick out the stitches.

Next, we're going to trim the excess fabric from our neckline. Trim carefully, and leave at least 1/4" inch of fabric in your seam allowance-- you don't want to risk getting too close and cutting into the seam you just sewed. This does mean that you will be trimming more fabric away from the back of the neck than you will be from the front, because of where the stay-stitching guideline ran.

Trimming excess from seam allowance.

Next, we're going to fold our bias binding over to hide all of these trimmed edges to give our hadajuban neckline a more finished look. Because the bias-binding has folds already pressed in, it will fold back on itself quite neatly. Remember to tuck the little bit of excess that you should have left at the ends back on itself before pinning closed. This way, you won't have raw edges at the bottom of your neckline. If you forgot to leave excess, don't worry-- this is underwear, after all.

Using the 'stitch in the ditch' method for an invisible seam on the right side of the garment.

Once the bias binding is pinned down (the image above shows the right side of the garment up, with pins on the inside. This is not ideal for pin removal during sewing, but this is what I usually wind up doing anyway.) you have two options. You can sew the bias binding down with the wrong side facing up, so that you can be sure you are catching the folded edge in your seam, or you can utilize the method in the photograph above.

At the top of this post, I suggested looking for a slightly narrower side to the bias binding and using that to pin down. All that comes into play here-- by having that wider edge folded over, it should overlap the original seam by just enough that you can 'stitch in the ditch,' running the needle very carefully in the space where the two fabrics meet, and catching the folded edge on the reverse side. This method offers a much cleaner finish on the right side of the garment, but it can be tricky. Pin carefully and sew slowly, and you shouldn't have any trouble. Once you've sewn the length of the collar, be sure to turn it over and check for any places where the needle didn't catch the bias binding.

Now that the neckline finishing is done, we can finish this garment!

Sleeves are Step 3 in the Folkwear pattern and I mentioned early on in this project that the sleeves were optional for the hadajuban. If you decide not to attach any, you'll need to figure out how wide you want your arm opening to be (you can use the marks on the Folkwear pattern as a guideline) and finish that area in a manner similar to how the overlaps were finished before sewing your side seams.

If you do decide to attach sleeves, you can still use many of the steps outlined in the pattern. The biggest difference is that we're making tube-sleeves, not kimono sleeves for the hadajuban. You'll want to finish one edge of each sleeve with a hem, and this can be done before attaching the sleeves to the body of the garment so that they are easier to manage.

Your other option for finishing your sleeves is to attach them to the body first, then sew your tube closed. In the photo below, you can see how this hem catches the seam allowance so that it is not sticking up like a little tab.

Hemming tube sleeves with 1/4" hem, similar to how the overlaps were finished.

This will definitely give a cleaner finish to the sleeves, but it can be a little tricky if your sewing machine does not have a drop plate to accommodate the sewing of sleeves.

After your sleeve is attached (or not!) all that remains is the side-seam and hem! These fall under step 4 of the Folkwear pattern. As this is an undergarment and should have minimal seam allowances, we don't need to worry about the finishing notes that the pattern gives. A simple seam at your usual seam allowance will do the trick.

Once the side seams are done, you'll want to head back to the ironing board to press the side and back seams open, and to make sure the overlap seams are pressed towards the overlap. This will reduce bulk in your hem when you go to sew and helps the garment to have a more even drape overall.

For my hadajuban, I pressed up about 1" for the first fold in my hem. All pressing for hems should be done to the wrong side of the fabric so that the folds are not visible from the outside.

Unfinished hem

Next, I made a little triangular fold, bringing the bottom edge of the outside fold even with the inside unfinished edge. Repeat this for the other overlap edge.

Fold one in creating a neater hem.

To finish the hem, brought the folded edge to the wrong side of the garment, all the way across the bottom, again using 1 inch for my guideline.

The angular fold keeps unfinished edges away from the outside edge and creates a cleaner, more finished appearance overall.

Once you have pressed and sewn this hem, your hadajuban will be completed!

If you have followed along for this project, I would love to see some of your own completed works. If you have any questions that will help you finish your garment, I would be happy to help you with those as well!

Crafting: Hadajuban (Part 3)

Welcome to the Workspace Wednesday crafting series. This week, we're continuing our inaugural project, sewing a hadajuban. Parts 1 and 2 can be found here, and here.

Last week, we finished our pattern layout and cut the pieces we needed. We should have two large pieces that make up the body, two overlap pieces and two sleeves. If we were making kimono or yukata, we would have additional pieces, such as a yoke (a piece used on the inside of the garment to stabilize the neckline), a collar (eri) and half-collar (han-eri). As we don't actually want a collar that will be visible when worn with yukata, we can omit all of these pieces.

This week, we're getting down to actual construction! If you've read your pattern instructions (and really, read all of the instructions!) then you have an idea of what the order of assembly should look like. What follows here are some practical pointers on those steps.

First, I like to finish all of the straight edges of my fabric by running them through a serger, or overlocking stitch machine. This is a specialized sewing machine that uses at least two needles and several cones of thread to create a stitch that covers and reinforces the edges of fabric. This is not necessary, and you can progress just as easily without it, but I find it gives my garment a more finished look and cuts down on frayed edges. You can create a similar effect by using a zig-zag stitch on a regular machine or by using pinking shears. If you decide to trim your fabric with pinking shears, be careful that you are not cutting too far into your seam allowance!

You can see the serged edge on the back seam piece of the body.

In the photo above, you can see that I left the neck line un-serged. This is because, not only would it be a very fussy area to try to maneuver through a serger, but this entire area is also going to be covered by our bias-binding collar later, and that will provide plenty of reinforcement on its own. I have not shown it here, but you will also wish to leave unserged the slanted side of your overlaps (but NOT the straight sides). Other areas you can leave unfinished are the hems, both on the overlaps and on the front and back of the body pieces.

At this point, the Folkwear Pattern suggests an order in which to sew everything together (Preliminary Construction). As we are not making kimono, there is only one seam  here that you need to worry about-- the back seam. We don't have any of the other pieces. Another step that I consider to be 'Preliminary Construction' is finishing the front edges of my overlaps ('overlapse' in the Folkwear pattern).

Serged front edge of overlap, folded over to finish.

One of the easiest mistakes to make at this point is to finish both overlaps in the same direction. If you have selected a patterned fabric for this project, this mistake is VERY hard for your to make, but if you chose a solid fabric with no discernible 'right' or 'wrong' side, you'll need to take a little more care. I suspect this is part of the reason the Folkwear pattern suggests sewing the overlaps to the body first, but I like to finish the edges when the pieces are unattached and easier to maneuver.

In the image above, I have both of my overlaps sitting with (what I decided would be) right sides together. Using the serged threads as a guideline, I've folded the material back on itself, then back again to completely obscure the threads and create a neat 1/4" hem. Once I've pinned the whole front of the overlap, I can flip both pieces over and repeat the process on the other overlap so that they will be mirror images of each other.

Sewing the front edge of the overlap.

Once the edges are finished, I will pin them, right sides together, to their corresponding front body piece and sew. At this point, the Folkwear pattern will give you guidelines for sizing  and where to best place the seam of your overlap on the body. If you did NOT make a pattern based on a closer fit, then follow the pattern's instructions. When I made my own pattern, I left room for a 1/2" seam allowance on all pieces. (I do NOT do this when I make kimono, especially out of traditional fabric, so that I can preserve the selvage.)

Next, it is back to the ironing board, where you will press your seam allowance towards the overlap. I like to do this before trimming the neckline so that I get a more clear idea of just where to trim (the pattern instructions say to trim, then iron). While you're here, press your back seam open, too!

Seam allowance is pressed towards the overlap. You can get a more clear view of your neckline so that your trimming is even. 

I will use my overlap pattern-piece, aligning the front edges and getting the slant even with the neckline to get a clear line on where to trim. I generally need to remove only 1 1/2" or so. Once this is trimmed, we are clear to place the stay-stitching that will be our guideline for our bias-binding collar (or for a regular collar if we were doing juban or kimono).

Our next steps include finishing the neckline, attaching (optional) sleeves, and finishing, and we'll have a look at all of these next week! Until then, if you have any questions or comments about our progress so far, please feel free to leave them in the comments!

Crafting: Hadajuban (Part 2)

Welcome back to our Workspace Wednesday Crafting series! Last week, we started work on hadajuban, a simple undergarment appropriate for summer wear. This week, we're going to pick up with pattern layout and cutting! As I mentioned before, I do not intend for this to be a full, step-by-step tutorial, but a sort of hints and highlights of things I have learned to make garment construction a little easier.


Fabric off the bolt in the United States and Europe is so much wider than the fabric that would be used for traditional kimono construction, so I start out by folding my fabric, not in half, but to a width that approximates the width of a tan of kimono fabric. This is usually about 14 inches wide, from the fold to the selvage. If your pattern pieces are wider or narrower, you can fold accordingly so that they will sit on the double-layer with  little fabric waste.

Cats are not vital to the sewing process, but they like to think they are.

In the image above, the ruler is flush with the fold of the fabric, and I've brought one edge up to the width I need. The ruler is sitting on the excess, and this is fabric that I will use to cut different pattern pieces. From here, I will pin the two layers of fabric and continue in this manner for the entire length of fabric. Using this layout technique, I can cut a hadajuban from as little as three yards of fabric. As my fabric is a solid color, there's not really a 'right' or 'wrong' side, but if you've chosen a patterned fabric for this project, be sure to fold it right, or patterned sides, together.

Pattern piece for body laid out and pinned.

This is the pattern piece that is going to make up the body of my hadajuban. It's based on the body pattern from the Folkwear kimono pattern, so the front and back are made in once piece with no shoulder seams. This is also an older piece, and a little more narrow than I wanted for this particular garment, so I have placed the center back seam side closer to the selvege and will cut along the fold of the fabric, not the pattern piece itself, to make the piece wider. If  you ever need to add width to a kimono or kimono-like garment like this one, the side-seam, not the back, is the place to do it! If you add the width at the back, you will be lengthening how long your collar needs to be, and that in turn will skew the final fit.

We have a cut piece! The scissors are pointing towards the neckline and center-back seam.

Remember how we had that 'extra' fabric that was not covered when we folded the material to lay out our body pieces? That's what we're going to use for cutting our overlap pieces.

Overlap piece pinned to fabric. The longest edge is along the edge that was formed when we cut out the body pieces.

Here, I took the end of the fabric and again folded it back on itself, but only to the length I needed for the overlap piece. Because I do a number of other fabric crafts, I try to conserve as much fabric as possible, which is why the long edge is along the same edge that was formed when the body pieces were cut, leaving another continuous strip of fabric available. I might use this somewhere else, as a sleeve facing on a juban, or for quilting. Again, if you've chosen a patterned fabric for this, be sure to fold with the right or patterned sides together!

We only have two more pieces we need to cut-- sleeves. For this project, you will want to create your own pattern piece for the sleeves as a traditional kimono sleeve is not the ideal shape or fit for this garment. Fortunately, the pattern is little more than a rectangle. You will want it to be a bit shorter than your regular kimono sleeve, as well as much narrower. My sleeve is 9 3/4" x 14" and this includes a 1/2" seam allowance.

Remember when I folded my fabric to approx 14" prior to laying out my body pieces? The length of my body pieces did not extend that full length and that is where we'll be getting our sleeves. As with the overlap pieces,we're going to fold the fabric back on itself to the length we need for the sleeves.

The pin is marking where I wish to fold the fabric over on itself to create the fold needed for a full sleeve piece.

Sleeve pattern pinned in place against fold of fabric.

The sleeve could be done in two pieces, but I think this way is much easier. Not only does cutting on the fold mean that you have one less seam to sew, but also means that you do not need more fabric to account for that seam allowance. It maintains a smooth line over the top of the arm and reduces bulk. This is how kimono sleeves are constructed, so there's no reason to not use the same technique here!

With the cutting of the sleeves, we now have all of the pieces we need to begin construction! Please join me again next week when we get to sewing and finishing.

Crafting: Hadajuban (Part 1)

As a nod to 'Workspace Wednesdays,' I'm going to try to devote Wednesday posts to crafting. This week, we're going to start with a somewhat lengthy project, but entirely appropriate for the warmer months ahead, if you're in the northern hemisphere.

In the summer months, having a garment to wear under yukata that is not a full juban is not necessary, but it is a practical addition to your kimono wardrobe. While the extra layer may add a little weight, it will also serve to protect your yukata from stains.

These garments, called hadajuban, can be easily acquired online and will generally be made of a light-weight, white cotton fabric. While ordering a garment might be more expedient, I much prefer to make my own. It takes a little longer, but by sewing for myself, I have a broader choice in fabrics that I can use, and I can be assured of the fit.

For the following walk-through, I'll be using the pattern pieces I've created using the Folkwear Japanese Kimono pattern (#113). I cannot recommend this pattern highly enough, and if you have any desire to embark on making your own kimono, this is the place to start. If you intend to follow along with this project, I strongly encourage you to purchase your own copy of the pattern and read ALL of the instructions.

Folkwear pattern. The white pieces are the pre-printed pattern pieces, the green are the duplicates I traced to meet my measurements.

If you are not confident in your sewing abilities to the extent that you would want to make your own kimono, this may be just the project to get your feet wet and familiarize yourself with the Folkwear pattern. The most complex thing covered here will be the application of bias binding to finish the neckline (which is NOT something the pattern even mentions; it's my own fix for not wanting a visible collar on this garment). As intimidating as it  might be, the only way to get better at sewing is to find patterns you want to make and to make them.

I should note that the hadajuban is a much more closely fitted garment than kimono, so while you may want narrower body pieces for this project, you will want something wider for a finished kimono. This is why I recommend tracing pattern pieces onto tissue paper or something like 'pattern magic,' a non-woven material designed for just this sort of thing, and generally found with interfacing in your local fabric store. If you are making your own pieces using the Folkwear pattern as a guideline, be sure to remember to leave a seam allowance. I like to leave 1/2" for this project, but if I am making kimono, I will leave even more seam allowance so that I can preserve the selvage edges of the tan (this makes it easier to size a kimono up or down if necessary).

For this first part, I'll be going over fabric selection and preparation.  I don't propose for this to be a step-by-step tutorial so much as a guideline as I offer some of the hints and techniques that I have discovered as I continue to learn about sewing and garment construction.

As this is going to be a garment worn mostly in summer months, I highly recommend purchasing a light-weight cotton for construction. Color doesn't really matter, though if you have more light-colored yukata, then you might wish to go with white or a similarly light-in-color fabric. Personally, I'm not as fond of white as it will show stains more easily (even if no one but you is going to see it), but I still have one to wear under my lighter colored yukata. For this project, I chose a darker indigo blue to use to demonstrate.

Any of these fabrics would be suitable for hadajuban, though I would probably select the white, as it is the lightest in weight and has an openness to the weave.

When purchasing your fabric, you want to be sure that you are selecting a 100% cotton fabric. The natural fibers 'breathe,' making it easier for air to reach your skin and keep you refreshed and comfortable. Polyester blends do not have this property and will keep your body heat close.

Once you have purchased your fabric, your next steps should be washing and ironing. Neither of these steps is glamorous or photogenic, but I can assure you, they are entirely necessary. Natural fiber fabrics are notorious for shrinking in the wash, and if you have chosen a dyed fabric, you'll want to be sure to wash it on its own so it can't stain any of your other garments. By pre-washing your fabric, you can take away a lot of that shrink factor and be assured that if  your pattern pieces are the right size, then your garment will continue to be the right size, even after subsequent washings.

Ironing, that other decidedly unglamourous step, is just as necessary if you want a finished garment that is not only free of wrinkles, but has a proper fit, too. Wrinkles in fabric can distort how your pattern pieces sit on the fabric, and may even warp the shape after they are cut, so iron, even if the fabric 'looks fine.'

There is a third step that you could undertake at this stage, known as 'truing' the fabric, which involves tugging at the selvage and ends so that the threads of the weave are more properly perpendicular to each other. On some fabrics, this can make a great deal of difference as pieces cut on an unintentional bias to the weave can have undesirable qualities of stretch. At this point, I freely admit to being lazy and have never actually used this step, and so far, I've been able to cut and assemble garments with no difficulty.

This concludes the first part of Crafting: Hadajuban. If I have been unclear at any point or you have questions concerning patterning or fit, please don't hesitate to leave a comment and I'll do my best to assist! Next week's Workspace Wednesday Crafting segment will cover pattern layout and cutting, and I hope you'll join me then.