Thrifted Kitsuke: Findings in the Wild

Last year, I did a brief series on Thrifted Kitsuke (part 1 & part 2) and finding items to compliment the wardrobe, even if you are not in an area or region where kimono are likely to show up at your local thrift store of choice.

One of the things I stressed at that time is the usefulness of revisits to  your preferred store, as turnover of items is entirely dependent on the donations those stores receive. Patience is rewarded, whether it's in a new scarf that can be used for obi-age or han-eri, or handkerchiefs to keep kimono tidy while worn. And, very occasionally, you may find genuine obi lurking among table-runners or kimono shoulder-to-shoulder with bathrobes and nightgowns.

Quite recently, my own patience was rewarded, as I found a lovely stenciled han-haba obi, simply hanging and waiting for someone to spot it for what it was.

Green han-haba obi with fan motif stenciled in gold.

My other find on that same trip was... well... let's say informative:

From several technical points, this could be considered a women's kimono. The sleeves certainly mark it as such, but there are many points against calling it a proper kimono. The first point is that there is no back seam, meaning that the garment was cut from fabric much wider than a traditional tan (which is usually only about 14 inches or so wide).

The spacing of the patterning is another point: while the embroidery work is beautiful, having such prominent work across the back and symmetrical on both sleeves is neither typical nor traditional placement for patterning. The fact that all of this beautiful thread-work goes WELL past the waist is also quite telling. Remember, on women's garments (which are usually at least as tall as the woman wearing them) a fold would be taken at the waist and all of this work would then be hidden under the obi. This would also be quite uncomfortable, as there is a certain dimensional quality to the embroidery work, and it would likely feel quite lumpy under the obi.

The next point to observe is that the fabric (rayon, according to the printed-in-English label) does not have the hand that one generally associates with the silk, or even synthetics of lined kimono.

Finally, there is the lining itself. Many of the lined kimono in my collection have the lining pieced from two different solid colored fabrics, with the paler fabric used for most of the body and the overlaps and lower portions in a darker, generally complimentary color to the kimono. (Vintage and antique kimono will often have vibrant red linings, but more modern kimono will generally have white.)Whenever I have encountered lined kimono where all pieces of the lining are composed of a white fabric, the edges and hem are often dip-dyed in a color complimentary to the outer fabric. This robe's lining is entirely white, with no coloring at the hems or edges.

A garment like this was most likely manufactured specifically for the tourist trade. It even came with a matching narrow sash, to tie it closed as one might a western-style bath or dressing robe. It is certainly not a garment that should be passed off and worn as a traditional kimono, but there is no reason to not enjoy it's unique artistry around the house.

Tips and Tricks Tuesday: Thrifty Kitsuke (Part 2)

Welcome back to Tips and Tricks Tuesday, where  you can expect to find a wide range of tips and curios that might not otherwise have a forum in my regular crafting or kitsuke posts.

I missed posting this last week as I was recovering from an absolutely amazing experience at Clockwork Alchemy. To anyone who has found this blog after attending my panel, 'Don't be That Gaijin,' welcome!

As I mentioned in my last installment, I've been a long-time fan of thift-store shopping, for day-to-day wearables as well as more unique treasures. I've had a lot of luck in finding kimono and accessories in thrift stores, but I know that not everyone has time or luck, so I thought that I would spend a little more time this week talking about finding kimono in online venues.

You won't be able to handle the garments as you would if you found them in person, so you have to rely on the information the seller provides to determine if the garment will fit. For this to be a successful venture, you need a little information beforehand, specifically, your own measurements.

To get the best, most accurate measurements, have a friend help you figure out the following: Height, 'Wingspan' (the distance from wrist to wrist across back with arms outspread), and Hip Circumference. Make note of these measurements in both inches and centimetres, as not all sellers will list measurements in both systems. Once you have these, you're ready to venture deeper into the web to find your own kimono.

A quick google search will show you that you can buy kimono (or garments calling themselves kimono) from a multitude of places. Amazon has listings for kimono, for instance, but many of these will likely be of synthetic material and more appropriate for use as a dressing robe than wearing out in public. If you are looking for more authentic garments but are not ready to go down the etsy/ebay rabbit hole, I recommend starting your search at Kimono Flea Market Ichiroya.

Ichiroya has 15 years of experience in selling kimono on line. They are very thorough with their documentation of any stains or flaws in their pieces and the information is always clear. New items are added almost daily, so there is always something different to see. They are based in Japan, so shipping might be a little pricey, depending on where you are, but there is no doubt that you can buy from them with confidence.

Another kimono-exclusive vendor from whom I have received excellent service is Ai no Kimono. This is run by a kimono enthusiast living in South Korea. Updates are not as frequent as Ichiroya, but the quality is always well documented, and the vendor is very easy to communicate with. I have made purchases from her in the past (this is where I found my bat komon hitoe), and I was absolutely delighted with the service.

If you are feeling adventurous, then ebay or etsy might be the place for you. I would still recommend having a good look at Ichiroya, though, because their listings can be an education in kimono vocabulary and will give you a better idea of terms you might want to use to refine  your searches. They are also the best example of the sort of information you want to find from a trustworthy kimono vendor.

I would like to stress this last point because your success with ebay or etsy is going to rely on the fact that you can not only refine what you're searching for, but be able to recognize authentic kimono from 'silk robe.' Sellers will tag or title items with a myriad or descriptors that might not have anything to do with what you're looking for-- they're just trying to get as much visibility as possible. Even if you are searching for specific terms like 'yukata' you may come up with things that sellers have mis-identified, or accessories that go WITH yukata, like han-haba obi.

Beyond what I mentioned above, both ebay and etsy have pros and cons when it comes to kimono shopping, even once you have found some items of interest. With ebay, you have the chance of finding quality garments for a lower price, whether the listing be auction style or 'buy it now.' It's more likely that in this venue, you will then be contending with shipping from overseas which can sometimes cost as much, if not more than what you paid for the garment itself-- and can take anywhere from a few days to a few weeks to arrive.

On etsy, I have found that the price is likely to be a little higher to start,but your only option is to buy, rather than bid, so you don't have to worry about being out-bid. You will still be contending with shipping, but that shipping may be from within your home country, so you won't have to wait nearly as long for your item to arrive.

I have had a great deal of success in acquiring garments and accessories from both ebay and etsy at what I consider to be bargain prices (remember, if you buy several items, the seller will often reduce the shipping cost!). My success has a lot to do with patience, diligent searching, saving sellers whose offerings I like and service I trust, and waiting for items to be on sale. With the pointers I've offered, I'm sure that you, too, can expand your own kimono collection to suit your tastes, and not hurt your wallet (too much).

Tips and Tricks Tuesday: Thrifty Kitsuke (Part 1)

Welcome back to Tips and Tricks Tuesday, where  you can expect to find a wide range of tips and curios that might not otherwise have a forum in my regular crafting or kitsuke posts.

I've been a long-time fan of thift-store shopping. It's amazing what sort of treasures can be found if one has the patience to look. It's always a bit of a gamble, as thrift stores are reliant upon the people who make donations, but with patience and perseverance, some really quality items can be added to any wardrobe. I know that I'm not the only one who thinks so, too. Tami, over at Thrift Shop Commando, is one blogger I found during the A-to-Z Blog Challenge, who has a lot of fun with her thrifting adventures and was partially responsible for my inspiration to do this post.

Accessories that can be adapted for kitsuke are certainly the most easy to find, but even kimono and obi can be found in thrift stores. Finding these will take a sharp eye and some knowledge of how garments are likely to be sorted, as well as frequent trips. Turn-over of items can be fairly quick in some thrift stores, depending on region and the sorts of donations the stores have to work with in the first place.

The easiest additions to find in a thrift store are accessories. Sheer or lightweight scarves can be used as obi-age, and these can be found practically everywhere, at any time of year.

Fans and handkerchiefs can also quite easy to find, and are very useful. They may not be directly kimono related, but if I am out in kimono, I am always carrying at least three different handkerchief with me (and I explain why here!). Fans, too, are a lovely accessory to kimono and in the summer months I am always sure to take one with me.

Another accessory to look for in your thrifting excursions are geta and zori. Spring and summer are generally the best time to look for these as many thrift stores are usually savvy enough to rotate seasonal stock. As these are shoes with a familiar shape to many people (think flip-flops), they have a broader appeal outside a kimono-wearing audience and are therefore more likely to show up in a thrift store.

More difficult to find, but not outside the realm of possibility are kimono, haori, and obi. The best place to look for kimono garments in your own local thrift store is to check any section that looks like it has bathrobes, either men's or women's. I have found a number of yukata (summer cotton kimono) in these sections at my own local Savers stores. Haori might also be found tucked in with women's blazers or light jackets, as they are shorter than kimono, but it's just as likely they might be sorted in with robes as well.

Women's kimono, found in a section for ladies' robes and nightwear.

Men's haori, found with men's pajamas. It was also hanging inside out, so the green of the lining was what caught my eye.

Some stores may even go so far as to sort out anything they consider to be 'ethnic' clothing, like one of the Saver's I frequent. Even so, I have found kimono at this store that were still tagged and stocked as 'bathrobes.' This shows very well that there can be little consistency in how garments are sorted and tagged, and that it can depend a great deal on who might be working and sorting behind the scenes.

Finding obi in a thrift store environment can be the most challenging, as there are several ways that a person not versed in kimono might decide to sort what, to them,is just a very long piece of fabric. Housewares might be a good place to start, especially as a popular use for obi that can no longer be worn is to feature them as table-runners. If your thrift store has a 'crafts' or 'fabric' section, this might be another good place to check. The men's obi in the photograph below was found sorted and hanging in a section usually devoted to yarn and sewing patterns.

Men's kaku obi

If you are comfortable with a sewing machine, and are anything like me, you probably already check the fabric sections of your local thrift stores. This is a great place to find fabric to make your own juban or other undergarments, or even a kimono! I've certainly found quality cotton yardages for juban, hadajuban and suseteko on more than one occasion, and once, I even found a tan for kimono. If you've never worked with a tan of fabric before, it is significantly more narrow (about 14 inches from selvage to selvage) than the fabric you find in your local fabric stores, so keep that in mind as you're shopping!

I found this hanging with other yardages of fabric at a local Savers. The photo is not the clearest, but this is the full width of the fabric, about 14 inches from selvage to selvage.

I admit that living in California, in an area with a thriving Japanese-American population, gives me a certain advantage when it comes to finding actual kimono in thrift stores. However, there are many other articles you can shop for and repurpose for your own kitsuke practice, so don't give up!

A-to-Z Challenge Interlude: Questions?

In my effort to bring examples only from my personal collection, I seem to have sabotaged myself in regards to Q. Realizing my quandary, I did what any logical person does these days and reached out to my social circle for assistance. From them, I have received several questions regarding kimono, kitsuke, and, of course, motifs, that I am using today to answer. If you, my kind readers, have questions of your own, please don't hesitate to ask in the comments!

How much should one expect to pay for a quality authentic kimono?

There area  variety of factors that can go into the price of a kimono, from the materials and style in which it is made to who is selling it. Pre-worn kimono tend to go for a lower price, and many sellers will be sure to point out any flaws or stains that might be present. I do a fair amount of shopping on ebay and have found several reputable shops based in Japan who specialize in used kimono and offer some starting as low as $10-$15 USD. While that price is more reflective of yukata or other unlined kimono, you can sometimes find lined kimono at such deals if you know what you're looking for. Bear in mind, however, that if buying from Japan, you will also be paying a greater amount for shipping. This is definitely the low end of the price spectrum and realistically, you are more likely to see prices in the $50 to $200 range, again, depending on the quality and formality of the material. Also to bear in mind, prices like this do not even come close to what something exceedingly formal, like an uchikake (wedding kimono) is likely to fetch.

I should add here that I have never bought a new (never worn) kimono that was not a yukata, and it's my understanding that modern kimono have significantly higher prices. They are also more likely to be bought for a specific formal occasion and will see minimal wear.

As for the caveat of 'quality,' I do not consider pre-worn kimono to be of an inferior quality to new. What is important to me when looking for a kimono is fit, coloring, versatility and wearability (good sellers will be frank if a garment is no longer wearable and better suited for taking apart and used for other projects) What I would consider to be inferior quality are garments are Asian-inspired prints on cheap satin fabric, such as 'costume pieces' that you might find at Halloween.

What's a good source for buying your first kimono and obi?

The most ideal situation for a first purchase is to be able to do your shopping in person, where you can hold the garment up to check for size and fit, and compare it to a selection of obi for the best match. If a shop or vendor is selling kimono, one would hope that they would be able to offer some insight into best matches for motif and color. This is not always the case, especially if you have managed to find a vendor at an anime convention or similar, but at least you would be able to handle the garments in person.

I realize that this is not possible for everyone and so my next recommendation would be to have a look at Kimono Flea Market Ichiroya. Ichiroya has a very good 'sizing guideline' and an excellent reputation for customer service, so if you have further questions, I feel confident that they would be able to assist.

Are there gender specific kimono?

Yes!

While patterning on a kimono can be a huge tell as to whether it was meant for a man or a woman, the best way to be sure is to look at the sleeves and side seam on the body. If you look at my left sleeve in the photo below, you can see where I am showing how it is open at the back.

Taken at my 'Don't be That Gaijin' kimono panel at Clockwork Alchemy 2015.

Women's kimono will always have this feature at the sleeves, and at the side-seam, there will be a space of approximately 3 inches between where the sleeve is affixed at the shoulder and where the top of the side-seam begins. This space is built in to allow for ease of movement with the wider obi that are worn by women.

On a man's kimono, the seam affixing the sleeve to the body will be much longer, leaving only 2 inches or so of fabric at the back of the sleeve where they are not connected This section of sleeve will be closed on a man's kimono, and there will be no gaps in the side seam as there are on women's kimono. As the obi for men are narrower, and the obi itself is worn more about the hips than waist, men have no need for the space at the side seam to allow for mobility.

Also to note: A women's kimono should be as long as she is tall, as it is folded in the middle to take up any extra length. A man's kimono need only be as tall as he is at the shoulders as a fold is not taken when he is dressing.

Whenever questions surrounding kimono and gender arise, I feel it necessary to point out that kimono are decidedly gendered and there really isn't any sort of middle ground. People, on the other hand, are not so easily categorized, so my best recommendation is that if you wish to wear 'men's' garments, wear men's garments. If you wish to wear 'women's'  kimono, then wear women's kimono, but in either case, be aware of what guidelines should be followed and don't try to mix the two-- centuries of fashion have come to dictate that the articles for one are not meant for wearing with articles of the other.

What are 'mon' and how can I identify them?

Mon are family crests that can be found dyed or embroidered at certain specific points on a kimono. The number of mon found on a garment will dictate just how formal the garment is.

The mon in this example is a stylized flower, placed at center back.

If you find only one crest at the center back, that marks the least formal of formal kimono. next in level of formality would be three crests: one at the center back, and then one on the back of each sleeve, a couple of inches from where it attaches to the body. The most formal kimono will have five crests: the first three as outlined above, plus one on each front panel, just inside where the sleeve attaches to the body.

If you have a kimono that has mon, I highly recommend making the effort to discover which family it belongs to, and there are resources and guides to mon to assist this. To do so is to show respect for whomever previously owned the garments, and it can help you answer any questions that may arise if someone notices the crest.

Thank you for joining me for this brief reprieve from motifs. We'll be back to the theme properly tomorrow with Rangiku (spider chrysanthemum, but I'll likely talk about other chrysanthemum too). If you have any questions that we didn't manage to answer today, please feel free to ask in the comments. I am happy to help, if I may.